T-Trak is a great concept. It makes it possible to make a small scene that can be finished. I was building an On30 layout a while back and realized I wasn't a layout person. I needed a concept where the layout was more volatile. If I didn't like the section of the layout, that scene could be replaced. T-Track is great.
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Spent four years building and rebuilding this scene on my old On30 Pacific Coast Air Line Railway. With T-Trak I could have built the scene in various incarnations.
If I didn't like them the scenes could be scrapped.
I wanted a larger "face" to hold the track in place on larger corner modules so the track section was screwed to a piece of luan.
Am building non-standard corner modules. Found that my Aligner Mark I lacked enough "face" to make alignment easy.
So am on to the Mark II version.
The basis of aligners is the Kato Unitrack 62mm Double Concrete Tie straights (Kato PN 20-042).
I use these #0x3/8 Phillips Head screws found on
1x4x4 inch wood
1/32 thick wood to cover the face.
Mark a line 1-1/2" from the edge perpendicular to the "face".
Align the track with the marked line.
Make sure you remove all the track joiners, D-oh!
Use a piece of wood to position the track to the face edge.
Screw the track down, the steel screws don't need a pilot hole.
Glue the 1/32 thick wood to the face of the block of wood.
Use a non-waterbased glue unless you are willing to clamp the wood until the glue dries.
Yeah, the basswood warped with waterbased glue.
Never was a wood person.
Build a left and right and the track is easy to align on the module.
Snap the left and right onto the track.
Align the edge to the front of the module.
Screw the track down.
The track will have the correct spacing from the edge and the correct track overhang.